Friday, December 12, 2014

Olivertir

We've been taking it easy for the last couple of days. On Wednesday,  we went for a walking to of the downtown. The guide delivered an impassioned history of zed ellie and it's paisa people's,  punctuated with appropriate historical sites and public works projects. It seemed that authorized and unauthorized activities take place in the same moment in harmony-some kind of made-in-Colombia balance that only works here.

I have noticed a lot of police. Everywhere. I cannot help but wonder if the anti narcotics activities, part of an aggressive Colombian-American partnership,  are truly a primary part of the local economy. Other than  that, the local malls are stocked with T shirt making supplies and sewing machines.  There is clearly an abundant cottage industry in textiles.

We explored a few of the more interesting areas of downtown by ourselves after the tour and made it back to Laureles in time for the big game at the local bar (woot!  Nacionol el mejor! ). Dan got himself in with a group of local chikas and we partied well into the wee hours of the morning, spend far too much money and, I can only speak for myself, drinking well beyond the point of responsible. We did indeed make it back alive, wiser for the wear.

Tuesday, December 9, 2014

Testimony of a Person in the Process of Reintegration

The last couple of days have been pretty mellow. I am happy to have finally figured out the local time and programmed my phone thanks to the clocks in the metro. As part of the festivals, stores are now keeping odd or no hours and the bars stay open longer into the mornings than I can personally vouch for.

We've explored a few more areas of the city and there is certainly the same gaps between rich and poor as many other cities.

After a dissapointing yesterday, where we both got dressed up and ran to the gym to find it closed, I did have my first Muay Thai class today and it was awesome! The teacher is the most gigantic Australian dude a I have ever seen and he has a pro fight next week; most of the other students were scrawny like me and my training partner was this most polite Venezuelan fellow.

Dan has made a few connections as well and we may be hanging with some new local friends tonight.

Sunday, December 7, 2014

Do not Prance or Bustle About

We brewed "real coffee" this morning and, I suppose unsurprisingly, it tastes pretty much like "Colombian" coffee that you get back home. There was this great crafts fair we had planned to go to but I had done my research incorrectly: it is on the first Saturday of every month!  With those things out of the way, we decided to ake the cable car as far as it would go and then check out this El Poblado district that all the American websites, and even the friendly fat Colombian Carlos who we met on the plane, raved about.

Walking down La Setentaa from our apartment towards the metro station at Estadio is quite pleasant. Like Calle 44, from yesterday, the shops spill out onto the street but there is much less vehicle traffic and everything is retail. There are many vendors that sell handcrafts but I will wait until I get a general idea about pricing before I buy anything.

The metro station itself is an interesting price of architecture and I will certainly post some pictures later. While we spent some time studying the route maps and tiered pricing charts, this was effectively meaningless; the clerk at the ticket office showed our balance to us with a calculator and, as far as I can tell, even with unlimited transfers and distance, if you don't leave the secure zone, you pay a flat rate of $1,700 COP to go anywhere. Well, anywhere as a commuter, anyway.

When we got to what the map showed us to be the top of the cable car line, there was another cable car system that seemed to go even further. $4,600COP later, we were on a cable car deep into the Colombian jungle.  Luckily, the destination was some sort of national park. Another $4,600COP will get you out of the tourist trap *ahem* "National Park" and back to the tram station at Santo Domingo. We chose to walk through the neighborhood to the next tram station.

Narrow roads and clear poverty were around us. We found ourselves on a staircase between Barrios stopped by "stair urchins" who were trying to communicate politely but it wasn't until "neccessito denaros a comar" that we understood what they wanted.  At the next opportunity, we took the tram. The experience has been extremely positive and people have been very friendly, been extremely polite, and demonstrated pride in showcasing their home. However, there are places in any city where the locals don't hang around if they can help it.

A few metro transfers later found us in El Poblado. Gangs of white people with dreadlocks and backpacks gave away the neighborhood long before the truckloads of Policia, private Securidad with shotguns, and eventually street signs ever did. We stopped briefly for some of the most expensive arepas in all of Colombia before being caught in a torrential downpour on our way back to the Metro station. Don't worry, while all the locals hid under awnings, we did our maple leaf lapel pins proud by powering through unimpeded to a station just jammed with locals wearing red shirts.

Not long after squishing into the metro car did we put the shirts together with out stop: Estadio. SOCCER GAME TONIGHT!

Festival of Lights

Yesterday, Dan and I walked about ten kilometers around Laurelles,  where we are staying all the way to the markets in El Centro.  The streets cape is a fascinating mix of small sole proprietor industrial shops (fabrication, automotive) right beside retailers and restauranteurs; all of th is spills organically onto the pedestrian walkway in a manner that we would consider thoughtful urban design.

The many public works projects are impressive and well utilized. Fitness seems an integrated part of people's lives here as exemplified by the massive multi block received complex in the heart of the city.

Today we're gonna take the metro out to the cable cars n the northern part of the city and then tonight begins month long festival of lights.

Saturday, December 6, 2014

Mandados

Today we will be exploring our immediate Barrio and stocking up on all the necessities we need for survival.  The apartment surprising came with very little initial supplies. Paramount amongst the essentials: finding that boxing club and finding the first cup of genuine Colombian coffee!

Friday, December 5, 2014

Arrival

We are actually here. In Medellin... South America. The harrowing traverse via taxi from the airport gave a glimpse of the sheer variety of things this city will invariably reveal over the next few weeks. I will not be renting a motorbike; they do not drive here on the roads, they fight and struggle for survival behind the wheels of subcompact cars.

Write your MP: apparently as of December 1, 2014, Canada started /charging/ Colombians for visas.  We enjoyed paying the unexpected "reciprocity" fee today.....

Thursday, December 4, 2014

Edmonton, the night before

I should be sleeping but I'm too anxious. South America. Colombia. Medellin. This is the furthest out of my comfort zone I have every been. Checking and rechecking my suitcase.